Woke up at 5:00 today. Too much anticipation for the big walk. We started walking at 8:30. Today’s walk was 25km (15 mi), 1200m elevation (4000ft) going from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles.

It was icy cold 28 degrees up in the mountains. So cold that I couldn’t think anymore and started to lose my sense of directions.

I wore everything that I brought. Under layers. Long sleeved Morino. Short sleeve. Fleece. Rain jacket. Moreno buff. 2 pairs of socks. Gloves. And it was still cold!

The scenery was breathtaking. Pillows of clouds languishing over the valley. Horses grazing grass. Birds chirping at the fresh air. Not too many walking at this starting point of Camino Frances. We were alone and felt like we had the whole world to ourselves.

There was no villages, no shops or stores along this first stretch, except for the food truck midway . The last 5 miles was all downhill but very arduous. There was still mud from yesterdays rain. We mistakenly took the first walk which was not advisable by the SJPP pilgrims office but we wouldn’t want to miss the walk through the beautiful green forest.

Roncesvalles Albergue was once a monastery. They added more floors and beds. I think they have 270 beds now and it was full when we arrived. The bed was 12 euros, dinner 13 euros, and breakfast 6. All had to be reserved in advance, including meals. It’s important to note that R provides a paper bed sheet and paper pillowcase for each bed. No blanket. Happy that I brought my sleeping bag, even though i did get hot in the night. And absolutely need to use eye mask and ear plugs, else you’ll be kept awake by the nocturne symphony of snoring, sleep talking, farting.

Laundry can be done by hand and hung out in the sun. Or let the volunteers do it, washing and drying for 7 euros. Laundry room is closed at 7pm.

Light out at exactly 10. Everyone is in bed to rest for tomorrow’s 21km walk.