We knew a storm was coming. Everywhere in the Occitanie region showed 2-3 inches of rain, but we had no choice but driving back to Toulouse to return the car and hop on the next train from Toulouse to Narbonne.

It was dark when we left Sarlat. I don’t even remember seeing the sun the whole day. We decided to take the toll road instead of going through the villages. It rained non-stop, there was accidents left and right. The worst part was when entering the périphérique of Toulouse, finding a gas station, and returning the car. There was no sign for rental car return at the train station, and we circled around the same area 3 times before finding it. But all is well.

Lightning, thunders, constant rain welcomed us to Narbonne. We debated between Béziers and Narbonne for base. I read that Béziers is kinda edgy, so we decided on Narbonne. Both cities are in the way the Tramontane wind blows, so yes, weather is cold in addition to being wet. Temp has been in the high 50s, and with wind it feels like low 50s.

After checking in to our airBnB, we trudged through the pouring rain to get basic stuffs for the place. It seems that AirBnBs nowadays provide bare essentials and only for the first day of rental. There is full kitchen with pots and pans and dishes and nespresso machine for coffee, but not even salt. Washer is provided but no detergent. At every new rental, we usually buy coffee pods, laundry detergent, oil/butter, and basic cooking ingredients. We take home sugar pods from cafes and restaurants.

Speaking of sugar, cafes are so tight giving only 1 pod for each coffee ordered. We asked for extras, and one more pod was given. Same goes with napkins. To start, the napkins here are just a two-fold thin paper; yet it’s not given unless asked for, and the cafes carefully made sure it was only a single piece. We really have been taking for granted the abundance/generosity of certain things back home, such as napkin boxes on the counter so some could take the whole wad; mustard, ketchup packets with no supervision as to how much you want to grab.

I wonder if it’s because we keep our mentality of being american when we travel and expect the world to match it. Maybe the cafes are careful with their expenses to keep the food costs affordable. We love going out for a coffee here, because we pay 1/3 of what we would have to shell out at home.

Back to Narbonne. Our place is 2 blocks away from Les Halles, on the other side of the canal. We go there eevry morning for fresh baguette, jambon, paté, saucisson, fresh meats and produce, and each would also have a pastry. Yesterday I had a Paris-Brest, the classique of French patisserie. It’s a mini-ring of choux shells filled with crème pâtissière, kept in place with crème mousseline, and drizzled with melted caramel.

And that’s not the only dessert à la maison. There is also yogurt, crème caramel of Bonne Maman, Le Petit Ecolier, and Lindt chocolates. I need to walk more, or have liposuction :(

Last night, after a dinner fait à la maison, we went to a beer cave on the other side of the canal. Beer cave because it’s in a cave. You don’t see the bar walking by because it’s just a door. But past the heavy door, you descend into a cave of of 2 floors, jammed with people. The cost of 2 beers: 8€. No added tax or tips.

God knows 3 days of rain is the most he could punish me, so today the sun is out. When the sun is out, you see people sitting outside of cafes soaking up the sun, old men and women walking to Les Halles with their bags heavy with groceries, shops are open with their merchandise displayed on the cobblestoned walkway. Marché de Plein Vent takes place on Sundays on the Cours Mirabeau. Since it was a beautiful day, half of Narbonne was out to do errands as well as to enjoy warmer weather and meet with friends.

Tonight’s dinner is 3-course, Bisque d’Homard (Lobster bisque) with petites crevettes, Raclettes, and Flan Caramel. Bisque is store-made, but really yummy. 2 flavors of Raclette: Truffe and Nature. I’m still trying to detox from foie gras :)

On my last night in France, I opted to cook at home. I love magrets and was worried I couldn’t find it in Spain, so I went to Les Halles and got myself magrets de canettes. I prefer canette over canard. My recipe for cooking magrets to my perfection:

• score the skin
• put magret skin side down in a cold skillet
• cook the meat at medium low heat to render the fat
• continuously remove the fat
• when the skin is golden brown and crispy, turn the meat side down
• At medium heat, cook for 3 min
• Sprinkle salt